By Cathy Nash Holley
March 3, 2020

I recently had the opportunity to try out Copper Branch, the Canadian fast casual in growth mode (60-plus units worldwide, three in the U.S.) that centers its menu on plant-based ingredients. The bowls menu features an array of vegan protein choices, including organic smoked tofu.

I normally would have steered away from this option because, as a consumer, I have a difficult time associating tofu with smoke, and also don’t consider myself a fan of aggressive smoke flavoring. However, it was explained that the tofu is marinated in a smoke-hot sauce mixture, making it a nice complement to the Mexican-inspired Aztec Bowl, a build of sweet potatoes, corn and mango salsa, and black beans, among other ingredients. The flavor surprised me. The tofu had depth rounded out by a savory hint of smoke. This nuanced flavor opened my eyes to what may be a modern flavor strategy.

Flavor nuance is the name of the game in 2020. Chefs have long been skilled in a refined approach to flavor development, but the plant-forward movement is making this more of an imperative. The subtleties of flavor development are what elevate the experience, adding distinction and sophistication.

The modern approach to smoke demonstrates this intentional use of flavor nuance. Katie Ayoub looks into this further in her deep dive on the subject (Smoke’s New Draw). She talks to chefs and beverage developers who are employing a more careful, deliberate tactic with smoke, adding both its nuance and romance to menu items. As a flavor profile, smoke can indeed be polarizing. In the article, Maeve Webster points out that it’s that light touch that keeps menu items in the safe zone and better sets a dish up for success.

In our Flavor Expedition 2020 feature, Gerry Ludwig, joined by colleague Nick Gonring, explores nuanced flavors that are showing up in trend-forward applications. As an example, miso is seeing more interesting menu play, lending menu distinction to condiments such as a miso mustard on a turkey sandwich or a miso yogurt on a fried chicken sandwich.

In Eliza Amari’s article featuring modern versions of global handhelds (The World in our Hands), subtle shifts abound. Here, we see a toast build starring prune jam that surprises, thanks to the warmth of Chinese five-spice and the savoriness of umeboshi vinegar. Mexican sopes get an unexpected cloud of heat from Dijon mustard powder.

When we’re out there tracking trends and looking to get bowled over by the next big flavor surprise, nuanced experiences remind us about the opportunities found on the softer side of flavor.
Cathy Nash Holley
Publisher/Editor-in-Chief
[email protected] | @GetFlavor