Vestry | New York

By Patricia Fitzgerald
May 11, 2022

Ivan Zivkovic
Throughout the Balkans, families pass down their secret recipes for sarma, a stuffed fermented cabbage slow-cooked for hours in a wood-burning oven. It’s this sense of provenance and authenticity that makes the Sarma Pork Belly Stuffed Cabbage at modern Balkan restaurant Ambar an iconic dish on the menu, says Ivan Zivkovic, Director of Culinary Operations for Street Guys Hospitality, parent company of Ambar.
Sautéed root vegetables are stewed with cubes of pork belly and then mixed with rice before being stuffed into leaves of fermented cabbage, sourced from the Balkans, and rolled like small burritos. These are placed in layers topped with beef prosciutto and smoked paprika, plus a final “lid” of leftover cabbage before being baked at a low temperature for 10 hours. “The entire restaurant enjoys the unique smell from the kitchen,” says Zivkovic. To finish, the dish is plated with whipped yogurt, a touch of housemade smoked paprika oil “for color and a sharp bite” and micro greens.
“Opening a tray of cooked sarma is a special moment that connects me to my childhood,” says Zivkovic. “The combined aroma of pungent cabbage, meat and vegetables is remarkable and lifts your senses. It was the easiest way to get a Balkan kid like me to come home in time for dinner.” Even lacking a nostalgic connection, guests gravitate to the deep, comforting flavors. “People are familiar with stuffed vegetables, but Ambar’s sarma takes it to another level,” he says. “It’s become a favorite dish that guests crave and return to us to enjoy.” Sarma is also a great takeout option since it can be made in large batches and travels well.

Tail of Whimsy: Vestry Cheesecake Vestry | New York

Seafood Special: Spaghetti with Blue Crab Vestal | Lafayette, La.
Vestal | Lafayette, La.

Getting Saucy: Blueberry Bourbon Chipotle BBQ Sauce U.S. Highbush Blueberry Council + University of Connecticut
U.S. Highbush Blueberry Council + University of Connecticut

Seasonal Spice: 5-Alarm Fall Vegetable-Grain Bowl True Aussie Beef & Lamb + Nordstrom Restaurants
True Aussie Beef & Lamb + Nordstrom Restaurants

Bar None: Hildee Bar Hildee’s Dine-Inn | Wimberley, Texas
Hildee’s Dine-Inn | Wimberley, Texas

Pastrami Flip: Mushroom Rueben Hearth and Hill | Park City, Utah
Hearth and Hill | Park City, Utah

Game Play: Roasted American Bison Filet Haywire + The Ranch at Las Colinas | Multiple locations in Texas
Haywire + The Ranch at Las Colinas | Multiple locations in Texas

Inside Scoop: Twice-Baked Bone Marrow Potato Harper’s | Dallas
Harper’s | Dallas