Day One

We crossed the water by abra (wooden boats used to ferry passengers across the Dubai Creek) and stepped into the bustling Gold and Spice Souks, where color and aroma do most of the talking. Prices were not fixed here; rather, they were negotiated in dirhams (the local currency), face to face, with a rhythm and confidence that felt foreign to many of us, who have been raised on receipts and card readers. Haggling was not just commerce—it was performance, part of the exchange and part of the culture.

Among the most interesting finds was a saffron-curry blend, which married two very powerful spices into a new, unexpected flavor profile that featured aspects of its progenitors but was still uniquely its own.

The best bite of the day was a toss-up between saffron camel milk gelato from a street vendor in the Gold Souk area, masala chips from Hashmi Barbeque and a warm slab of kunafa at a Turkish coffee spot that we stumbled upon after lunch.