Dumplings by the Half-Dozen

At Shanghai-inspired Ugly Dumpling, the eponymous Sampler may sound conventional, but when eaten in the suggested sequence, it becomes a distinctive tasting experience. Each tender dumpling features a different filling: seasoned ground pork; pork and shrimp; pork and crabmeat; pork and truffle; pork with Sichuan mala; and seasoned ground chicken. These savory fillings are suspended in a rich, gelatinized broth that melts when steamed.

“The Ugly Dumpling Sampler is designed as a progressive journey,” says Shirley King, director of culinary operations. The classic pork should be tasted first, establishing a baseline of umami and texture. Next, the pork and shrimp dumpling adds a layer of briny sweetness and a firmer, more resilient bite, while the pork and crabmeat dumpling introduces delicate sweetness, with a subtle minerality. The pork-and-truffle dumpling shifts the experience into earthy, luxe territory. The penultimate ‘Sichuan Spicy’ version interrupts the richness of the previous bites with heat and distinctive floral notes from Sichuan peppercorn and black vinegar. Finally, the ground chicken dumpling provides a lighter, cleaner finish.

In the R&D process, the team was surprised by how much the sequence mattered, says King. Servers are trained to explain the progression. “Customers appreciate the ability to taste multiple varieties without committing to a full order of each,” King notes. “There’s also a ‘fun’ factor, as diners guess the fillings and discuss their favorites.”

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