By Mike Kostyo
Jay Kumar
The origin story of the Chicken “Afghani” at Lore, a concept featuring a wide-ranging global menu, starts with a friendship. Chef/Partner Jay Kumar had the “most wonderful meal” at a friend’s home in Kabul, Afghanistan. Of particular note was a chicken dish featuring a thick, mild sauce, raisins and almonds. For his version, Kumar wanted to zero in on the “incredible flavor and texture” found in a simple chicken thigh.
He marinates the chicken for more than 24 hours to achieve tender meat that contrasts with the crispy skin in the final dish. “The marriage of these textures is the first layer of the experience,” says Kumar. “The rich, black pepper-forward chicken is off set by the creaminess and sweetness of the combination of the butternut squash and cashew sauce.” The chicken is plated over crunchy cabbage thoran, a take on a type of cabbage stir-fry hailing from Kerala, India. “One bite is a confluence of sensory experience,” he says. The bold-yet-comforting item became one of the most popular dishes after it was added to the winter menu.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Mike Kostyo is the VP of Menu Matters, a private consultancy that works with foodservice professionals to analyze, understand and leverage food and beverage, industry and consumer trends. Kostyo has been a recurring guest on Fusion TV’s “The A.V. Club” show; has been featured on NBC News, CBS Radio and Gimlet Media’s “Why We Eat What We Eat” podcast; is regularly featured in newspapers and magazines; speaks at numerous conferences across the country; and was a judge on Food Network’s “Eating America.” For over a decade, he was the resident Trendologist and an Associate Director at Datassential, one of the food industry's leading insights companies. Kostyo has a master’s in Gastronomy from Boston University, plus certificates in the culinary arts, baking arts, wine and artisan cheese production. He is a regular contributor to Flavor & The Menu and can be reached at [email protected].
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