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Under-the-Radar Levantine Street Food Classic

Mama Mezze | New York

Ed Scarpone

Despite being a beloved Levantine street food, arayes are a rare find on Eastern Mediterranean menus in New York, says Ed Scarpone, executive chef of Mama Mezze, a Middle Eastern concept. For this small-plate offering, fresh pita bread is stuffed with thinly pressed beef seasoned with cumin, coriander, garlic, onion, spices and a housemade harissa. It’s grilled so the fat renders into the bread, crisping it from the inside while keeping the meat juicy. It’s served with tahini and s’chug for dipping.

“I see it as a street-food classic interpreted for a New York audience,” says Scarpone. “It’s a dish that delivers on seasoning, texture and an interactive element with the condiments. It hits like a comfort food but with deeper spice and more layered flavors than people expect.”

During development, Scarpone was surprised by just how important the pita proved to the overall dish. “Finding a pita with the right structure and flavor was key, ensuring it could hold the meat securely while also crisping evenly on the griddle,” Scarpone explains. “Once that was dialed in, it became clear that the pita itself adds a layer of flavor and texture, absorbing the rendered beef fat to create a buttery richness that complements the spice-forward meat.”

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