Catching the Wave of Flavored Tequilas

Scotch bonnets and cheddar cheese powder enliven hushpuppies (left), while deviled eggs welcome a variety of new ingredients including caperberries, sweet relish, onion straws and cajun hummus (right).

 

Stop 1: Red Rooster

Soul food through a modern lens

It would be a gross oversimplification to credit Harlem’s modern culinary prowess to a single restaurant, especially when eponymous stalwarts like Melba’s, Amy Ruth’s and Sylvia’s have been woven into the fabric of the neighborhood for decades. (The latter dates back to 1962, earning founder Sylvia Woods the “Queen of Soul Food” nickname. Meanwhile, Oprah Winfrey is producing an upcoming Apple TV series based on Melba Wilson.)

These institutions specialize in well-executed, comfort food classics, leaving the door open to less traditional riffs. In 2010, celebrated fine-dining chef Marcus Samuelsson answered the call with Red Rooster, an upscale yet laidback eatery one block away from Sylvia’s. The menu hints at Southern fare and soul food but doesn’t fully commit to either, opting instead to play around with global flourishes and elevated presentations. To wit: Simple-as-can-be hushpuppies are upgraded by adding Scotch bonnets and scallions into the cornmeal-based fritters. They’re dusted with cheddar cheese powder for extra umami and served with chive butter.

Also on the snacks section of the menu are deviled eggs with dialed-up craveability. The creamy yolk-mayo-mustard filling is crowned with sweet relish for tang, thin slices of onion straws for texture and fried caperberries for a potent salt kick. And in a move that doubles down on the luscious, smooth mouthfeel, the eggs sit atop a base of “po’ boy” hummus with Cajun seasoning.

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